[Interview] Dennis Kelly, connecting California and Seoul through wine

Dennis Kelly, a renowned Master Sommelier from the U.S.

Aiming for Seoul’s heart with his exceptional wine selections

Dennis Kelly, a Master Sommelier, is the owner of Better Beverage Company and the Michelin one-star restaurant Protégé. /Lee Jung-soo

“God made only water, but man made wine.” This famous quote by Victor Hugo, one of France’s greatest writers, celebrates the creativity and ingenuity of humanity. Wine, one of the world’s oldest beverages, has grown and evolved alongside human history.

Throughout the ages, wine has played a role in some of the most significant moments in history. Ernest Hemingway, the renowned author of The Old Man and the Sea, was known to enjoy “Château Margaux”. Perhaps a glass of wine offered him comfort amid the struggles of writing. Napoleon Bonaparte, the French emperor, famously carried a generous supply of wine on his military campaigns. His favorite was “Gevrey-Chambertin”, a bold and rugged Burgundy wine with flavors as intense as the battlefields he faced.

Today, wine has become a universal companion for celebrations and special occasions. In S. Korea, too, it has found its place in daily life. Pairing a fine bottle of wine with meaningful moments is now a common tradition.

Calling wine “simply fermented grape juice” fails to capture its true essence. The flavors of wine can change drastically based on its origin, vintage, and even the soil where the grapes were grown. Even lifelong wine enthusiasts admit that its complexities are nearly impossible to fully understand. Thankfully, there are experts who help us explore and appreciate this intricate world: sommeliers.

Among sommeliers, the title of Master Sommelier (MS) represents the pinnacle of achievement. Since its introduction in 1969, fewer than 300 people worldwide have earned this prestigious title. Achieving it requires unparalleled expertise, including the ability to identify a wine’s vintage, varietal, and region with a single taste. Dennis Kelly, a world-renowned Master Sommelier, is one of the few to hold this distinction, and he’s bringing his passion for wine to S. Korea.

Better Beverage Company's list of Wines. Established by Master Sommelier Dennis Kelly, the company aims to provide charms of California wines to the World. /Better Beverage Company

Dennis Kelly focuses primarily on California wines, a region close to his heart. Not only did his wine journey begin there, but California’s diverse climates and landscapes make it one of the best places in the world for producing exceptional wines. From refreshing coastal breezes to bold, rich flavors reflecting the vast American landscape, California wines offer an incredible range of experiences.

To further his mission, Kelly founded Better Beverage Company, a business dedicated to introducing outstanding wines to new customers. The company’s portfolio includes 20 hand-selected California wines, each showcasing the region’s unique charm. His efforts have been met with enthusiasm. A recent wine-pairing dinner at the Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas, in collaboration with Michelin three-starred Chef Ahn Sung-jae, sold out in just one minute.

One of the standout wines in the Better Beverage Company portfolio is, “Super Necessary.” This wine opens with flavors of black cherry, cassis, and plum, followed by delicate notes of mint and violets. The combination of sweet black fruit, subtle baking spice, herbal undertones, and gravelly minerality creates a wine with impressive depth and complexity.

Another highlight from the portfolio is the 2020 Seabold Cellars, Chardonnay from the “Eden Rift Vineyard – Reserve Block” in the Cienega Valley. This wine opens with aromas of golden apple, yellow peach, and hazelnut, yielding to a long, mineral-driven finish.

Looking to the future, Kelly hopes to spotlight lesser-known wines from regions beyond California. His decision to focus on S. Korea reflects his belief in the country’s growing appreciation for wine and its potential as a market. Through Better Beverage Company, Kelly’s ultimate goal is to help people discover beverages that suit their tastes and create lasting memories, one glass at a time.

Dennis Kelly, Master Sommelier, selecting wines from wine cellar. /Lee Jung-soo

—Could you please introduce yourself?

“My name is Dennis Kelly, I am a Master Sommelier and co-owner of Protégé, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Palo Alto, California.” I was born in California, raised in Ohio, and then I moved back to California when I turned 20. I pursued a musical career, but then found my true calling working in fine dining restaurants. This eventually led me to the world of wine.

—What inspired you to dive into the world of wine?

“My wine journey began in 2004 when I arrived in the Napa Valley and realized that wine knowledge was essential to earn respect working in restaurants. After passing the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) ‘Introductory Examination’ in 2005 at the age of 39, I decided to focus my career on wine. I then passed the CMS Certified-level exam in 2006, the Advanced-level exam in 2007, and was promoted from Captain to Head Sommelier at The French Laundry in 2008. Ultimately, I became the 191st person worldwide to pass the Master Sommelier exam in 2012.”

—Can you tell us about Better Beverage Company?

“Better Beverage Company was established to bring extraordinary California wines with minimal retail exposure to S. Korea. We also plan to expand to other markets in the future. We represent premium, micro-producers from California, selling them to Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury hotels, and a few retail stores. I was the Head Sommelier at The French Laundry, a Michelin three-star restaurant, for nearly 10 years. The wines we represent are from producers I got to know during that time. These wines are rare and highly-allocated, even in the U.S.”

Dennis Kelly, Master Sommelier, during an interview with The Chosun Daily at the Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas. /Lee Jung-soo

―What inspired you to focus on S. Korea for your wines?

“S. Koreans have a remarkable passion for wine. During the COVID-19 pandemic, we started a wine club at Protégé and each of our members was S. Korean. Additionally, S. Korea has a strong drinking culture. People here thoroughly enjoy drinking, which made me believe this market would appreciate what we offer.”

—What kinds of wines are included in Better Beverage Company’s portfolio?

“Our portfolio features wines from extremely high-quality, artisanal producers. For example, John Alban who is known as the original “Rhône Ranger,” an association of growers who devoted their wineries to Rhône grape varietals in the United States. Alban “Patrina” Syrah is particularly energetic, exploding with opulent blue fruits and lavender, complicated by savory notes of bacon-fat, olive tapenade, and black peppercorn.

We also feature wines from fellow-Master Sommelier, Chris Miller. His wines are all priced well-under $100 and offer exceptional balance and quality. Seabold Cellars, “Pelio Vineyard” Pinot Noir, from limestone-based soils in San Benito, boasts loads of red fruits, foresty earth, stony minerality, and a velvety tannin structure.

Finally, there’s Super Necessary, which we produce ourselves. For years people asked me why I didn’t produce my own wine. The answer was that so many of my friends in California are winemakers and I don’t want to compete with them. As a Sommelier, I get to support outstanding winemakers and never have to be in competition with them. Super Necessary gave me the opportunity to utilize two decades of experience and my extraordinary network of resources to produce a wine that we created specifically for the Korean market.

—Do you have any tips for choosing a good wine?

“I believe a really good wine has a ‘sense of place.’ Terrior— The soil, aspect, elevation, and climate of the vineyard has a significant influence the wine’s character. Heavy use of expensive oak can mask the unique characteristics of wine and increase the cost of the wine significantly.”

For this reason, I recommend bright, crisp white wines like Chablis. On the red side I often suggest Beaujolais, which is light, fruit-forward, and incredibly food-friendly. California Pinot Noir is always an excellent option because of its approachability and versatility.”

—Is there a wine you hold particularly dear?

“My ‘epiphany wine’ was a bottle of 1985 E. Guigal, “La Mouline,” Côte-Rôtie. In 2005, I offered to decant that wine for a guest and he agreed, but then winked and invited me to taste it. I had no idea how prestigious this wine was at that point, but when I stuck my nose in the glass it blew my mind. I didn’t realize wine could be so complex and intriguing. 20 years later I offer that same bottle at Protégé, but I have never retasted it because I am afraid to be disappointed.”

Dennis Kelly, Master Sommelier, tasting wine during a session. /Lee Jung-soo

—Are there any wines in your portfolio that pair particularly well with Korean food?

“Absolutely. Adroît, Falanghina, “Calleri Vineyard,” San Benito County 2022 is an “orange wine” and has a slightly wild character that pairs beautifully with fermented dishes, such as kimchi, pickled vegetables, and seafood. Another great option is BOLD WINE CO., Carignan, “Old Vines,” Redwood Valley 2021. From vines planted in 1918, this wine features rich blackberry flavors with lots of peppery spice, making it a perfect match for dishes like grilled pork belly or bulgogi.”

—How would you describe your life if it were a wine?

“That’s an interesting question, but I’d say my life resembles Champagne. It’s a wine that’s exhilarating and complex, much like my journey— from drummer in Hollywood, to Head Sommelier at one of the world’s most iconic restaurants, to Master Sommelier. Champagne is a luxurious wine associated with celebration, and I have been blessed to experience a life filled with many wonderful reasons to celebrate.”

—What advice would you give to those aspiring to become sommeliers?

“To become a really great sommelier you must be curious and driven to learn everything you can about wine. You must enjoy reading wine books, listening to wine podcasts, and participating in wine tasting groups. Finding good mentors is also crucial. The world of wine is infinite, so remaining humble is essential.”

—If you could choose one last wine to drink, what would it be?

“I’d like to drink a bottle of Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny, Grand Cru. Hailing from one of my very favorite vineyards and producers, the wine is extremely rare— only about 350 bottles are produced each vintage— and might be the epitome of elegance and sophistication.”

—Lastly, is there anything you’d like to say to your readers in Korea?

“I’m thrilled to be in this beautiful country. I look forward to introducing more exceptional wines to you. I’ll do my best to ensure you never regret choosing the wines I recommend. Thank you for your support and interest!”

[Lee Jung-soo]

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